Syrian footprints in the Bekaa

Preceding BEIRUTSTATEofMIND's trip to Wadi Khaled, we visited the towns of Arsal and Hermel in Lebanon's Bekaa Valley - each with their own differing set of allegiances and invested interests in Syria,each bearing witness to a  current influx of refugees, and each operating as a safe-haven for combatants active across the border as fighting between the Syrian army backed by Hezbollah and the opposition FSA continues in Qusair in neighbouring Homs province.

THE ARTICLE BEIRUTSTATEOFMIND PENNED FROM THE TRIPS IS LINKED HERE

Images.ARSAL

Woman and child. Arsal, 17/05/13.

Meet the gang, Arsal. 17/05/13.

Inside the tent, Arsal. 17/05/13.

Boy and flip-flop. Arsal, 17/05/13.

Kitchen-Bathroom. 17/05/13.

Peace, Arsal. 17/05/13.

Sheikh, Arsal. 17/05/13.

Behind you, Arsal. 17/05/2013.

Outside Laboue. 17/05/13.

Images.HERMEL 

Dr Ali Zaiter, Former Head of Hermel's local council. 17/05/13. 

Mahmud and Zeinab Abbas, from Homs, whose son was killed fighting against the FSA.
19/05/13.

Road to Qusair, Outskirts of Hermel. 19/05/13.

Ali Khodr Hajj Hassan, Mayor of a small village between Hermel and the Syrian border.
19/05/2013.

A portrait of Ali - the 4th Islamic caliph, revered by the Shia, that also references
Hussein - the3rd Shia imam killed at the Battle of Karbala.
19/05/13. 

The ancient and mysterious Kamouh el Hermel with Shabab and graffiti. Hermel
19/05/2013.

Tremors in the Wadi

As fighting between the Assad regime aided by Hezbollah and the opposition Free Syrian Army has escalated in Qusair in Homs province communities along the Lebanese border with Syria are being increasingly drawn into the conflict: both directly, as is the case of Hezbollah, operating in Qusair from their bases in the Bekaa valley centred around Hermel, and involuntarily, as is the case in the northern Lebanese valley of Wadi Khaled: a place where many refugees from Qusair have found safe haven amongst a community sympathetic to their struggles and the occasional cross-border shelling has become far from uncommon.

Last week BEIRUTSTATEofMIND spent a couple of days in the northern Lebanese valley speaking with recent waves of refugees, local residents and municipal figures, and members of the Syrian opposition. In a majority Sunni pro-Mustaqbal region, apprehension over the increasing involvement of Hezbollah in Syria was palpable, as was a lack of confidence in the Lebanese Army's ability to defend the community from further cross-border shelling. Recent Sunni immigrants, hailing from Syrian villages visible from the Wadi, spoke of being increasingly pushed out of their villages by pro-Assad elements. A phenomena they linked with the Assad regime's desire to establish a "safe-zone" of exclusive regime control in the heartland of their support. Beginning from the Hezbollah stronghold of Hermel in the Lebanese Bekaa and snaking its way up the Lebanese-Syrian border to the coastal cities of Tartus, Latakia, and Banias, often referred to as the Alawite heartland of the embattled regime.

... The Article BEIRUTSTATEofMIND penned from the trip can be found HERE ... 

Since the outbreak of Syria's civil war over 27,000 refugees have made their way to the Wadi, supplementing an existing population of 40,000 that already ranked amongst Lebanon's poorest. Given a relative dearth in national and international effort to cope with the influx many families in the Wadi have provided safe-haven for those fleeing Syria, in their homes. During BEIRUTSTATEofMIND's visit to the Wadi, we met with Firas, a local resident who works in a mobile phone shop in Jounieh and whose family have provided shelter to no fewer than 14 Syrian families in a property, under-construction, that Firas had planned to move into upon completion. In the evening's many of those who Firas and his family host join them in their main salon after dinner for a few cups of tea. The topic of conversation is usually political. The relationship between the families, amicable, as it seems in much of the Wadi.

Kids outside, Wadi Khaled. 20/05/13

Man and slippers, Wadi Khaled. 20/05/13.

Mother and children, Wadi Khaled. 20/05/13.

Baby at rest, Wadi Khaled. 20/05/13.

Unwell man reclines. 20/05/13.

Mother and Child - the baby was a mere 10 days old
at the time the photo was taken.
Wadi Khaled,
20/05/13.

Father and child (and cigarette).
Wadi Khaled,
20/05/13.

The doorway, Wadi Khaled. 20/05/13.

Kids in the salon, Wadi Khaled. 20/05/13.

On the roof - where shelling of Qusair was both audible and visible on the horizon< Wadi Khaled. 20/05/13.

Tagging Beirut: More from the Amal Movement

These pictures were taken a couple weeks back in an old four-storey apartment block just round the corner from the Haigaizian University in Hamra. Featuring the usual suspects Nabih Berri, leader of Amal and Speaker of Parliament, and forefather of the movement, Imam Musa Sadr and of course a necessary reference to Ali, the 4th Islamic caliph, revered by the Shia.

Sadr on the right, the Amal logo centre, and Berri's forehead on the left. 14/05/13.

Amal. 14/05/13.

Berri and stairwell. 14/05/13.

Ali. 14/05/13.

Amal stairs. 14/05/13.

Berri (with hair) and Sadr. 14/05/13.

Style Icons - The Sehnaoui Debate: Eyebrow or Eyebrows and playing with Rhinos

BEIRUTSTATEofMIND does not know all that much about Lebanese telecommunications minister Nicolas Sehnaoui. Sure, his participation in a political playing field so endemically defined by corruption means he occasionally needs to get his hands dirty. But not to do so would be tantamount to political suicide in Lebanon. The rules of the game dictate how the players play and wow Sehnaoui has some game.

Lebanese pop-singer Najwa Karam supposedly refers to
Sahnoui as "The Smoulderer".

Sehnaoui in a suit is something special but it is in the "smart-casual" department, that grey area that has been the downfall of many a seasoned politician, that he comes into his own.

His eyebrow(s), glasses, starched ralph-lauren polo-shirt combo are said to have wooed many an admirer whilst simultaneously sending a plethora of style advisers into early retirement. Coupled with the je ne sais crois, laissez faire, ruminations of his arm hair, juxtaposed by the faux-formalism of his permanently tucked-in shirt, jeans and assics-trainers, the combination places Sehnaoui amongst Lebanon's best-dressed politicians.

An artist's impression of the man.

What is particularly refreshing about Sehnaoui's style is that despite his sui-generic stylistic disposition he manages to maintain a touch of humility enabling him to relate to the common man. Moves such as Sehnaoui's decision to open up Beirut's old train station in Mar Mikhael for the Champions League final this weekend illustrate the man's awareness of what the people really desire.

The Champ is here.

And Sehnaoui is also a lover of animals. Not just simple, easy to get along with type animals like gerbils and hamsters, but also creatures from the more misunderstood side of the  animal spectrum like wombats, duck-billed platypuses, and wildebeest. Indeed, Sehnaoui has even been known to spend the occasional weekend shooting the shit with rhinoceroses. Moves that could potentially be dismissed as cringe-worthy Putin-esque publicity stunts if it wasn't for the natural ebullience of the be-eyebrowed Lebanese Telecommunications Minister obliterating such close-minded pre-suppositions.

Not sure what the fuck is going on here.

Beirut Soul Sessions (Volume I)

At the end of a hard week's work the BEIRUTSTATEofMIND team tends to get down to some serious soul sessioning into the wee hours of the weekend. Here are some particular favourites - signed, sealed, and delivered with the approval of Frank Rijkard and Greco-Roman Wrestler.

1) al green - gotta find a new world.

2) sam cooke - bring it home to me.

3) lauryn hill - i find it hard to say (rebel).

4) stevie wonder - all i do.

5) the delfonics - la la means i love you.

With love.

Lebanese Driving Habits...

35mph in Jdeideh. There is actually no one in the back-seats. Maybe it was a hop-on.
17/05/13.

IMPORTANT FACT ABOUT LEBANESE DRIVING: There is no such thing as Aks'ser in Lebanon, even on highways.

SYRIA DIARIES: A long ferry journey

In order to save a bit of cash returning from Syria BEIRUTSTATEofMIND decided to catch a ferry back to Lebanon from the unremarkable Turkish port of Tasacuc, rather than splash out on the combined air fair of a domestic flight to Istanbul and an international connection on to BEIRUT. On the ferry I found myself somewhat of an anomaly amongst 200 Syrian refugees fleeing civil war; and a hitch-hiking French farmer with a peculiarly high-pitched laugh...

Ali paces back and forth, nervous energy palpable in his movement. He scratches his shortly cropped hair and spits into the Mediterranean.

"Have you got a Lebanese mobile," he enquires with a certain urgency. "Can I use it when we get to Lebanon?"

Before I have time to reply Ali turns to a friend. I overhear him saying he'll throw me overboard if I don't let him use my phone. His friend laughs. Ali laughs too. I also laugh. They are joking.

"I can't swim," says Ali delivering the closing piece de resistance of his joke before bursting into hysterics.

Ali, 24, from the city of Raqaa near the Iraqi border is one of 200 Syrian refugees upon the commercial ferry from the unremarkable Turkish port of Tasacuc heading to Lebanon in search of job opportunities and a standard of living unavailable at home. On arrival he will become one of over 650,000 Syrian refugees in Lebanon. Syrian and Palestinian refugees now account for over a quarter of the Lebanese population...

...The tale of the rest of the journey is linked HERE...

Shots from the Lebanese Syrian border

Over the last week BEIRUTSTATEofMIND has been researching developments in the Qusair region of Homs province - looking at the increased role of Hezbollah, fighting alongside the Syrian regime, in the area in addition to speaking with FSA members taking a break from the conflict in Arsal - a bastion of FSA support in a region (The Bekaa) otherwise monopolized by Hezbollah. The below shots were taken in Hermel - the main base from which Hezbollah fighters cross into Syria to participate in the battle for Qusair; and Wadi Khaled, in the north of the Lebanon where refugees from Qusair are arriving in droves pushing the total of Syrian refugees in the area over 27,000. This in an area with a pre-Syrian civil war population of 40,000 inhabitants. Whilst in Hermel the border is heavily controlled by Hezbollah, in Wadi Khaled, an area of pro-Hariri support, any strong physical regulating of the border appears lacking and locals express a lack of confidence in the Lebanese Army's ability to defend the area against shelling and the occasional infringement of Lebanese sovereignty by Syrian army troops. The vice-president of Wadi Khaled municipality stated simply that the Lebanese army didn't really exist, and that the community feel completely abandoned by the Lebanese government who have failed to provide adequate support to deal with the increasing refugee crisis.

HERMEL

Lebanese Syrian border at Hermel. Lebanon being on the left. The man in military fatigues on the right hand side of the photo is a member of the Syrian Army checking out BEIRUT|STATEofMIND's presence on the border. Originally suspicious his apprehension was alleviated by BEIRUTSTATEofMIND's guide on the visit. A one-handed Hezbollah operative who quickly revealed to the soldier that we were with him - the only explicit reference he made to being a member of the Lebanese Shia party.
18/05/13.

From a Hezbollah safe-house in Hermel. Smoke, the result of Syrian government shelling of Qusair, can be made out on the horizon.
18/05/13.

WADI KHALED

A view into Syria. Lebanon on the right, Syria on the left.
20/05/13.

The city of Qusary can be seen in the background. The sound of shelling is a constant in Wadi Khaled whilst it is far from unusual for the occasional shell from Syria to land in the area.
20/05/13.

Syria Diaries: A camp on the border

The Azaz refugee camp located on Syria's northern border with Turkey is home to over 10,000 internally displaced refugees faced with scant work and educational opportunities, living in an environment where disease is rife and medication to cope with maladies is lacking due to a want for international aid. Whilst many men of age in the camp fight with or have previously fought with the Free Syrian army others make the daily journey across the Turkish border to work as day labourers. There is no guarantee of work and been scuffles occasionally break out between Syrian labourers and Turkish border and custom police leading to the temporary closure of the Azaz-Kilis border to those seeking work. 

The camp's school consists of a set of tents with multiple classes taking place in each. In total over 800 children receive instruction from just 35 teachers who take no wages. In the camp anything beyond basic medical supplies is lacking, with medical healthcare for pregnant women noticeably lacking. This lack is reflected in the schools where shortages of stationary, text books and other basic items stymies educational development. Stepping in to breach the gap the camp's local Mosque provides children with afternoon instruction in reading and Qur'anic studies. This is a phenomenon noticeable throughout Aleppo province where ongoing conflict has made journeys to school perilous and many of the schools themselves have become the victim's of government shelling.

Class time, Azaz Camp, April 2013.

Class time (2), Azaz camp, April 2012.

  دفتر, Azaz camp. April 2013.

Counterfeit cigarettes, Azaz Camp, April 2013

Collecting water, Azaz Camp, April 2013.

Boy and tin bucket, Azaz, April 2013.

The water tank, Azaz camp, March 2013.

Peace, Azaz Camp, March 2013.

10 month old Muhammad Najar - suffering from malnutrition.
Azaz Camp, April 2013.

A sufferer of leishmaniasis, which has been on the rise since the outbreak of Syria's civil conflict

is held by his older brother. Azaz camp, April 2013.

Hard knocks living, Azaz camp, April 2013.

Boy standing next to a bus tagged with an emblem representing one of the Free Syrian Army brigades active in Azaz.
Azaz camp, April 2013. 

A tribute to a fallen martyr on the wall of the Azaz Press Office across the road from the camp, Azaz camp, March 2013.

"...On the path to freedom", Outkirts of Azaz camp - heading into Azaz, April 2013.