Green Man - a veteran of Tahrir & BEIRUTSTATEofMIND's correspondent in Turkey reports on ongoing protests in the capital...
Rumor
has it that the police will continue to be absent around Taksim and Gezi Park
until Monday. That meant last night (Saturday, June 8th) would be especially
festive. The presence of supporter’s of Istanbul’s three main football teams –
Galatasaray, Fenerbahce, and Besiktas –marching in solidarity increased the
general level of energy and testosterone.
Since
I've been in Istanbul, the only previous times I'd seen people get tear gassed
to high hell were when these teams play each other, so it was a huge deal. I am
only somewhat joking when I say that the sight of thousands of Fenerbahce fans
wearing red and gold Galatasary scarves around their necks was almost as
inspiring as seeing Coptic Christians protecting their Muslim compatriots
during their prayers in Tahrir Square in Cairo in 2011.
When I
entered the square around midnight, it was completely full. The scene at hand
seemed reminiscent of the Zion party scene in the 3rd Matrix movie.
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| Crowds gather on Istiklal street leading to Taksim square, Istanbul. 02/06/13. |
Large
swaths of stones had been dug up, graffiti and trash covered almost all
available surfaces whilst upturned, burnt out police trucks barred entrances
from any of the main streets.
But the
people were excited and it showed.
They
were also well on their way to getting absolutely hammered. The number of empty
Efes bottles, serving as testament. One guy got
so obliterated that he literally shat himself. Given the lack of public toilets
in the vicinity it was a somewhat forgivable move. The general mood felt
simultaneously like a raucous victory celebration and a defiant act in the face
of some known and impending doom. It was, at the same time, George W. Bush on
an aircraft carrier with a "Mission Accomplished" banner and the 300
Spartans getting crunked up before facing near-certain death.
Over in
Gezi Park political allegiances and motivations seemed a little more defined, people - perhaps a little less raucous. Things ran with certain efficiency, through
volunteer organizations. Even the trash was neatly collected.
Every inch
of non-walking space was covered in tents or bodies wrapped in blankets. There
were free food stations, hospitals, libraries, music stages, and even a few
projector cinemas. When the temperature dipped in the wee hours of the night,
my ill-prepared group was offered blankets from everyone around us.
But
even still, no doubt – this was first and foremost a party. Under the canopy of
the Sycamore trees, the booze flowed generously, songs were sung, and the
entire arsenal of Turkish dance moves was on full display. Jubilation,
defiance, anger, euphoria, almost every emotion could be found in ample supply.
If you allow me to get real nerdy here, the green scenery and the over the top
celebration made it seem like I was surrounded by Ewoks and the Death Star had
just been destroyed. There was even a fellow with a lightsaber, drunkenly
impaling his friends.
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| Flares light up Taksim square, Istanbul. 08/06/13. |
The
camaraderie and everything else about the camp was truly inspiring, but I wonder
how long it can last. Outside of central Istanbul and Besiktas, there is little
evidence that would indicate any sort of civil uprising is taking place.
Through conversations I've had with other Turkish people not affiliated with
the movement, it seems clear that it does not have the same the same
level of popular support as the January 25th revolution in Egypt. Many people believe the government line that the protesters are simply provocateurs and violent looters. Each day people wake up with the same
question, “Will we celebrate today, or will we resist?” We have not witnessed
large counter-protests in Istanbul directly confronting the protesters yet, and
from my experience in Cairo, this is when the situation can spiral out of control. Come Monday, we shall see what direction this is all
headed. Until then, I will continue stockpiling face masks and lemons.
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| Winter is coming. Cihangir, Istanbul. 03/06/13. |
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